How to make the most of 48 hours in Bern, Switzerland
There's a moment of mental recalibration when you have to remind yourself that Canberra, not Sydney, is Australia's capital, or that Washington, D.C., not New York, is America's. Something similar happens in Bern.
The mental stumble isn't difficult to understand; it's because most capitals come with an element of fanfare. Bern* is far more restrained, even understated, despite its UNESCO-listed medieval centre and swimming-friendly river; despite the grand architecture of its Central Palace, the contemporary undulations of the Paul Klee museum, and even its cheek-by-jowl positioning of nature and culture.
Perhaps because of this understatedness, Bern lends itself well to leisurely exploration. There's no sense of frenzied box-ticking, making it ideally suited to a relaxed, yet rewarding, weekend break.
Getting there: fly to either Zurich or Geneva with SWISS*, which offers flights from multiple UK airports, and then take the train in under an hour from Zurich and around two hours from Geneva. Bern is around an hour's train ride from Basel, too.
Friday evening
The city's Old Town is within a 10-minute walk of the train station and has several hotels, ranging from high-end to boutique, to choose from: staying in this vicinity will put you squarely within a short stroll of the sights. Don't forget that booked accommodation grants you a Bern Ticket for free public transport.
As evening falls, wander through the medieval streets towards the Swiss Federal Parliament to admire its illuminated facade. Construction began in 1894, and it was officially inaugurated in 1902. Remarkably, for the time, 95% of the materials used in the build were sourced from within Switzerland, intending to physically demonstrate the country's diversity.
It faces a large, café-thronged square, the Bundesplatz, which features plumes of water spraying from the ground in the summer and an ice-skating rink in winter. Pull up a chair at the bistro-style Entrecote Fédérale and enjoy the spectacle alongside a menu committed to quality, largely local ingredients.
Before heading back to the hotel, stop for a nightcap at Kornhauskeller. Beneath Bern's six kilometres of vaulted arcades, a variety of atmospheric sandstone cellars, once the basement storerooms of wealthy merchants, await. Don't let the absence of a rowdy strip fool you into thinking that the Bernese don't know how to enjoy themselves: the fun is taking place in intimate settings, underground.
Saturday morning
Head to Münstergasse 74, which has been the site of a bakery for over 100 years. Today, it's home to Bread à Porter, where an open-plan layout allows customers to watch the bakers in action, making uniquely Bernese specialities such as Scharfer Berner, as well as weggli (a soft bread roll), pretzels and gipfeli, the Swiss, less buttery version of a croissant. Order a coffee, take a seat under the covered arcade and fuel up for the morning.
It's less than a five-minute walk from here to the late Gothic splendour of Bern Minster, on which construction began in the early 15th century. The cathedral has Switzerland's highest church spire, and you can climb the 254 steps to reach its lower viewing platform, or an additional 90 steps for the same glorious panorama over the city and river, but from an even higher vantage point.
If you don't have much of a head for heights, it's free to explore the nave. Grab an audio guide (available in five different languages) and take in the rich colours of the stained glass windows and over 200 carved stone figures representing the Last Judgement. From here, it's a short stroll to Einstein House.
The scientist lived in Bern from 1903 to 1905, during which time he wrote his four Annus Mirabilis papers, which revolutionised our understanding of physics. The apartment itself is modest, but it has been furnished with items typical of the German's time, as well as educational exhibits that provide insight into his work.
The surrounding streets are full of independent shops and boutiques, so take your time over finding a place to have lunch.
Saturday afternoon
Suitably refuelled, make your way towards Nydegg Bridge and cross the Aare towards BearPark. It's a beautifully green spot, with lovely views back towards the Old Town and the river, as well as a panoramic lift.
By now, you will probably have noticed the ubiquitous 'bear' symbol around the city. In fact, Bern means bear. Its connection with the animal dates back to the early 16th century, when Bernese soldiers returned from battle with a live bear as a trophy; from that point onwards, bears were kept in various enclosures around the city.
BearPark was opened in 1857, around 45 years before the mammals were hunted to extinction in Switzerland. As awareness of animal rights has grown, the park has responded to criticism by creating a species-appropriate environment, rather than a concrete pit, but be aware that this site won't thrill everyone.
Summer is the time to join the locals in a spot of river swimming, provided you're a competent swimmer. There's a strong current, so people simply drift with a buoyancy aid, while ladders provide entry and exit points.
If you're travelling with children, or not a confident swimmer, head for the adjacent free-to-enter Marzili Lido, which has a range of pools and grassy sunbathing lawns. If immersion isn't your thing, the river banks play host to many pop-ups in warm weather, so just relax with a drink or an ice cream.
Saturday evening
Bern is home to over 100 public water fountains, many of them within the Old Town. The 16 most recognisable are the brightly-painted ones around Kramgasse and Spitalgasse.
While these were created, primarily, to provide social spaces for drinking water, many of them also pack a punch in terms of reminders of heroic acts and moral behaviour.
Some simply scare the living daylights out of Bernese youngsters: witness the Kindlifresserbrunnen (Child Eater Fountain), which, created in 1545, portrays a monstrosity with its jaws wrapped around a baby held in one hand, while its other hand holds a bag of infants set for a similar fate. An unconfirmed rumour has it that children in Bern eat all of their vegetables and go to bed as soon as they're told to...
In any case, it's worth cluing yourself up on the history of these fantastical fountains, as doing so will greatly enhance your enjoyment of encountering them on your way out to dinner.
Cheese-lovers should try Lötschberg, where the focus is on fondue and raclette, while Altes Tramdepot has a wide range of homebrewed beers served up alongside pub favourites, many with a Bernese twist.
Sunday morning
Don't panic about being advised that many places in Bern are closed on Sundays: this refers mainly to shops. Cafés and restaurants are still open, although some operate on reduced hours, so you may want to make the most of your hotel breakfast, just in case.
Afterwards, take a leisurely walk through the old town, over the river and up to Rosengarten. Formerly a cemetery, it was made into a public park in 1913 and remains a peaceful place, popular with locals. Located above the city, it offers another lovely view of the Old Town and Aare, and is home to over 200 varieties of roses. Other flora, such as irises, rhododendrons and cherry blossoms, can also be enjoyed here.
Use your Bern Ticket to jump on the Number 10 tram down to Zentrum Paul Klee, which houses the largest collection of works by the Swiss-born artist, who was influential in 20th-century modernism.
Before venturing inside, take some time to appreciate the work of starchitect Renzo Piano, whose building design, reminiscent of hills or rolling waves, seems to have effortlessly captured light and space.
Sunday afternoon
There's a decent café in the Paul Klee museum, as well as the option for a spot of fine dining in the nearby Restaurant Schöngrün. Filled with plants and housed in a restored 19th-century villa, it focuses on simple, locally sourced ingredients.
If your artistic appetite isn't yet sated, the Number 7 tram will take you to the Kunstmuseum, which houses works from Picasso and Fra Angelico. The museum is also remarkable for its pivotal role in representing female and non-European artists.
You will doubtless have seen Bern's medieval clock tower several times during your visit, but time your return to the Old Town to coincide with the hour striking, and you'll witness its show of dancing bears, crowing rooster and Chronos, the god of time, from below.
Monday morning
If you haven't booked a tour to the top of the tower to see the clock from within and the view over the city, Monday morning is a good time to take the funicular up to Gurten, Bern's nearby mountain.
The journey, including the tram from the centre, takes close to an hour, but is worth it for its Alpine views and gentle trail walking, not to mention its 500-metre toboggan run.
Despite being a relatively small city, Bern allows you to pack a great deal into a weekend itinerary, while catering to interests ranging from cultural to outdoorsy. The fact that sightseeing never feels rushed, and that you never feel as though you've skipped a chapter in the guidebook, is a surprising twist on a capital city.
Climate in Bern
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maximum daytime temperature °C |  2 |
 4 |
 8 |
 12 |
 16 |
 20 |
 22 |
21 |
18 |
13 |
7 |
3 |
| Hours of sunshine (daily) | ||||||||||||
| Days with some rainfall |  15 |
14 |
15 |
 16 |
18 |
17 |
15 |
16 |
13 |
13 |
14 |
14 |
The above guide shows the climate in Bern. Find out more about conditions across the country in our complete guide to the climate in Switzerland.
Ready to experience the capital of Switzerland? See the latest deals on flights from the UK with SWISS, the nation's flag carrier.
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