How to do Venice differently: alternative attractions & activities
Venice, or La Serenissima - 'the most tranquil one', as it has long been nicknamed in Italy, is undoubtedly one of the most bewitching, beautiful places you're ever likely to visit, and one that features highly on the 'bucket lists' of many travellers to Europe.
Tranquillity has perhaps not been the word that's sprung to mind in recent years when Venice* became known as one of the cities struggling under the weight of over-tourism, something especially attributed to its popularity as a cruise port.
However, steps have been taken to limit the strain, with cruise ships now required to dock some distance away, in Marghera, and a tourist tax imposed on visitors.
Despite these measures, there are still times of year when the crowds can be overwhelming in Venice; summer is an obvious one, but there's also Carnevale (during February/March).
Travel outside of these periods and you're still likely to find yourself waiting impatiently on the steps of bridges crossing the canals while someone poses for the perfect picture; but there's plenty to look at while you wait and you'll find prices, generally, to be lower.
One thing to be aware of is the acqua alta, literally the time of 'high water' in Venice. It's a natural occurrence, contributed to by many things such as tides and currents but, thanks to climate change and the fragility of a city as watery as Venice, it's been seen to happen more frequently, and more drastically in recent years.
In 2019, Venice endured one of the worst incidences of acqua alta on record; water levels rose to over six feet, complete with café tables and chairs floating crazily down the streets and temporary elevated walkways built along flooded thoroughfares. October to December tends to be when the risk is highest.
When the streets are dry, one of the simplest pleasures in Venice is just to walk its passages and squares, watching the gondolas glide past on the canals, with the gondoliers calling out to one another to signal their approach around corners.
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St Mark's Square
As the cultural and historical hub of Venice, St Mark's Square* has always been associated with splendid, symmetrical architecture and grand edifices.
The most notable of these, of course, is the Basilica itself, where St Mark's relics are held: the exterior of the structure is remarkable.
And not just for its intricate Byzantine mosaics but especially for the one that depicts the ruse by which the Catholics smuggled these relics out of Alexandria, by way of packing them in pork, repugnant to those of the Islamic faith and therefore safe from further investigation. Meanwhile, the interior of the Basilica fairly shimmers with gold and glory.
The Doge's Palace* and the gold-adorned Campanile are other must-sees in this famed square: glorious architecture and materials are in evidence in every direction.
As one of the lowest points in Venice, this is also one of the worst affected by the acqua alta, so time your visit carefully. Although it's a great location for people-watching (and pigeon dodging) avoid eating or drinking here if you don't want to pay above the odds.
The Grand Canal
Constantly chugging with the activity of water taxis and delivery boats alike, the Grand Canal* is a hive of activity. In terms of accommodation, a property facing the water is fabulous if you want to wake up and feel that you're right in the thick of daily life, although there's something genuinely charming about staying in a more remote location.
That said, there's much to love about a boat ride along the Grand Canal. Depending on where you're staying, the Alilaguna vaporetto can take you directly from Marco Polo Airport to Venice at just €15 for a 90-minute journey past those gloriously grand waterfront façades.
You can then walk to your accommodation, provided that you don't have loads of luggage: heaving a jam-packed, full-sized suitcase up and down all those canal bridge steps isn't much fun. Alternatively, you can switch to another boat to reach your destination.
Gallerie dell'Accademia
Venice is packed with museums and art galleries, but if you visit only one, the Gallerie dell'Accademia should be it.
The decorative ceiling in the first gallery will give you a crick in your neck, but once you tear your eyes back downwards, you'll be able to feast them on opulent religious art, smothered in gold leaf and devotion.
There's a huge and beautifully curated array of works by the Old Masters here as well; Tiziano, Giorgione, Veronese, Bellini and Carpaccio, to name a few. On the ground floor, there's a sculpture collection, including busts by Rinaldo.
Inevitably, some works may be removed from display, so if there are particular masterpieces you're hoping to see, check the museum's dedicated restoration link.
The Gallerie dell'Accademia also hosts temporary exhibitions; access to these is included in the entry price, but the cost of admission may change to reflect this.
Cross the Grand Canal to Giudecca
The islands of Murano and Burano* are so well known; the former for its glass industry and the latter for its colourful and endlessly photogenic façades. While they merit a visit, they won't grant you much reprieve from La Serenissima's tourist traffic.
Giudecca, on the other hand, was once a rather scruffy workers' neighbourhood. It can be reached in five minutes on the Number 2 Water Taxi from Zattere, just in front of the Santa Maria del Rosario church (worth a look inside for its beautiful 18th-century frescoes).
The island now forms a peaceful day out from the sometimes-overwhelming crowds of Venice: canals still splash lazily against coloured buildings, boats still glide along the waters and elderly women demonstrate astonishing fortitude as they lug their shopping trolleys, crammed with fresh vegetables, up and down the bridges' steps, but there are far fewer tourists.
There's a multitude of churches to be explored as well, the most striking of which is Chiesa del Santissimo Redentore. Built to to honour a vow made in praying for the city to be delivered from the plague of 1575 to 1577, it was designed by Palladio, but completed after his death in 1580 by Antonio da Ponte (who designed the Rialto Bridge), with faithful attention to Palladio's vision.
Inside, there are numerous artworks, including some by Tintoretto and Veronese. The church's beginnings are commemorated in a 1619 artwork by Paolo Piazza called Venice's Offering for Liberation from the Plague of 1575-77; look for it above the entrance door.
Giudecca's waterfront is lined with cafés and restaurants, all of which offer a superb view of Venice, across the water, but if you want to dine with the locals, head a few streets back to Trattoria Altanella.
Once the domain of intellectuals and artists, it has an old-school feel with dark wood and a marble bar, as well as a covered outdoor seating area and, of course, tremendous food.
Sign up for a mask-making workshop
In homage to its famous February Carnevale, Venice is home to no end of souvenir shops selling masks but sadly, many of these are cheaply mass-produced overseas.
For a more authentic experience, use some of your time on Giudecca to book a workshop at Carta Alta. Not only will you learn about the (sometimes roguish, sometimes downright dastardly) history of mask-wearing in Venice, as well as how the tradition evolved and has been harnessed by Hollywood, but you'll also have the opportunity to create your very own mask.
You'll be given a blank canvas on which to build your chosen decorative components, meaning they can be as ornate and outrageous or as simple as you please. Once these are attached, the mask is thickly painted in the colour of your choice, and you'll be guided through the process of adding gold or silver embellishments before attaching long, satin ribbons to secure your mask to your face.
Take a guided tour of Teatro La Fenice
Translating as 'The Phoenix Theatre*', this gilded opera house has a fascinating history, reflected in its name: it has been lost to fire no fewer than three times since 1774 but has always 'risen again,' like the mythical bird.
On a guided tour, you'll learn about its past, as well as some of the legendary evenings that have taken place there; after all, this glorious Baroque construction was once the epicentre of Venetian high society, hosting performances from the likes of masters such as Verdi and Bellini.
The décor deserves to be marvelled at, too; it's a splendid jewel box of an interior, dripping with opulence and detail.
While you're in the vicinity, be sure to walk a few steps to The Merchant of Venice, a haven of delicious fragrances housed in an ancient apothecary. Each bottle is an artwork, crafted from Murano glass and referencing Venice's ancient Silk Road links.
Enjoy aperitivo time like a local
As soon as the sun starts to set, Venice turns orange... with a blaze of disappearing daylight? If you're lucky, sure. With hundreds of glasses of Aperol being poured? Unquestionably.
Venetians love to clock off with an Aperol Spritz, so join their ranks at any of the city's squares or waterfront bars and enjoy the aromatic, faintly bitter taste of the drink mixed with Prosecco and soda water over ice.
Up your 'live like a local' credentials and order a few cicchetti. These are essentially the Venetian version of tapas: little plates of meatballs, slices of ham, small-cut sandwiches, grilled vegetables, olives and boiled eggs, as well as oysters. It won't be easy, but remember to leave room for dinner.
Climate in Venice
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The above guide shows the climate in Venice. Find out more about conditions across the country in our complete guide to the climate in Italy.
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