Why super-cool Cologne should be your next city break
It may not be as popular with tourists as Munich or Berlin, but the western German city of Cologne has lashings on offer with one of Europe's most dramatic cathedrals, a welter of museums, the wide sweep of the River Rhine and a famously raucous, lively nightlife.
Cologne* is worth visiting for its Dom alone, the voluminous cathedral that dominates the city and boasts of being the most visited monument in Germany.
The river has been the city's lifeblood since Roman times, but these days the heavy industry and cargo barges have been joined by the new technology and media companies that fuel Cologne with an unmistakable buzz.
There are still oompah bands and bratwurst in the beer halls, but the city's large student population and the influx of media professionals, who prefer the funky fusion restaurants and hip DJ bars, have palpably spiced things up. And then there is the beer. Wherever you savour it, the local Kölsch beer is almost as famous as the Dom itself.
Getting there: situated on the Rhine, you can easily cruise into Cologne. Find the latest online offers on itineraries to Cologne with TUI River Cruises*.
Cologne's story
This deeply historic bolthole on the Rhine has been around for over two millennia, first emerging as the tongue-twisting Roman settlement of Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium.
Legacies of its days as a key Roman military and trade hub linger, but more pronounced are the remnants of the days when Cologne was a key player in the Hanseatic League.
Germany's assault on much of Europe during WWII brought severe Allied bombing that devastated swathes of the city. But Cologne refused to be subdued, forging a new role in recent decades as a new media, cultural hub and city break destination for those looking for somewhere different beyond Berlin* and Munich*.
What to see
The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Dom stars as one of Europe's largest cathedrals and easily one of its most arresting. This gloriously gothic expanse is known as the 'Queen and Mother of all German Churches', and it rewards repeat visits.
Its towers may no longer be the tallest buildings in the world, but they are still a challenging climb. The construction of Cologne Cathedral began in 1248, and its intricacy and local wrangling meant it took over 600 years to erect.
Gross St Martin was once grander than the cathedral and lies on the site of an old Roman temple. It may have lost a bit of its shine and suffered badly during WWII, but it is worth exploring for its history, as this former monastic church was once occupied by Benedictine monks from Scotland and Ireland.
Cologne also has myriad museums and galleries. If you only visit one, make it the avant-garde Museum Ludwig, where Picasso, Warhol and Lichtenstein star.
Look out for the annual 'Night of the Museums' when the city's cultural treasures come alive with banging nightlife in a celebration that unfurls any dull and reserved anachronistic images anyone still harbours about Germany*.
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is the key sightseeing focus. This charming warren used to boast over 150 churches, but Allied bombing during WWII took its toll. The rambling web of cobbled streets is still an atmospheric venue for a spot of aimless wandering, with plenty of cafés and bars for sustenance along the way.
In contrast, the Rheinauhafen district shows some of the new faces of Cologne. This island has undergone a massive glass and steel transformation, with Microsoft having a large presence here alongside the Chocolate Museum and the German Sport and Olympia Museum.
Some of the original cranes and silos have been preserved for a beguiling mix of old and new; a microcosm, then, of Cologne.
What to do
Getting out on the lifeblood Rhine, the longest river in Germany, is an essential Cologne experience. The city really makes sense as a trading hub and Hanseatic haven from the water.
The passenger ferries offer respite for anyone not keen on multi-lingual commentaries on the tour boats, while the riverside cycle paths are another option on a sunny day. If you prefer a bird's-eye-view, then hop on the 1 km-long cable car from the zoo to the Rheinpark. The latter is a lovely green lung in its own right, with great views back across the Rhine to the cathedral.
For an even better vantage point, ascend the 103 metre-high KolnTriangle, which affords epic 360° views of the city swirling all around you.
Opened in 2006, the citizens of fiercely proud Cologne are delighted that it was designed by local architects. Entry to the building is free, and you can just pay a few euros to access the viewing platform on the 29th floor. The 27th floor boasts the KolnSky Restaurant, with its floor-to-ceiling windows.
Cologne is such a party city that it needs its own beer. Wherever you savour it, the local Kölsch beer is almost as famous as the Dom itself and definitely a more relaxing option on a summer's day. For the most atmospheric beer-quaffing, head to the celebrated beer halls.
Some of the best include Haus Toller, a cosy and homely venue, Kuppers Brauhaus, with its own beer museum, and Weiss-Brau, one of the newer wave of beer halls catering to a younger demographic.
Where to eat
The traditional beer hall restaurants have been complemented by some bright new places to eat as city breakers and cruise passengers have breezed into the city in larger numbers, and new media types crave cool.
Hansa Stube is the grand signature restaurant of the Excelsior Hotel Ernst, with dishes like crispy fried grey mullet with risotto and saddle of local lamb.
Wartesaal am Dom is one of the best of Cologne's more modern venues, but its setting is gloriously vintage, housed in the old waiting room at the main railway station.
Fruh am Dom is perhaps the most famous beer hall of all, with lots of the frothy stuff and hearty traditional fare. Beware ordering the 'halven hahn', which is not, in fact, a half chicken as the name suggests, but, as a bizarre local joke, just a simple cheese roll.
Climate in Cologne
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maximum daytime temperature °F |  39 |
43 |
 50 |
 57 |
 66 |
 72 |
73 |
73 |
68 |
 59 |
48 |
41 |
| Hours of sunshine (daily) | ||||||||||||
| Days with some rainfall |  18 |
 14 |
17 |
16 |
16 |
16 |
15 |
15 |
15 |
15 |
17 |
18 |
The above guide shows the climate in Cologne. Find out more about conditions across the country in our complete guide to the climate in Germany.
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